Q: Why Sealcoat?

A: Numerous studies by the Asphalt Institute demonstrate the measurable benefits of preventive maintenance. Periodic Crack Sealing and Sealcoating will greatly extend the life of your pavement.  With the skyrocketing costs of new asphalt, the case for maintenance has never been greater.  Spend a little now - or a LOT later.

Q: Are all Sealcoat Products the same?

A: No! While many manufacturers produce “sealcoat”, the process, standards and compounds used in the making of sealcoat vary greatly. That is why BLACK DAWG uses only the finest materials available on the market. You can buy “sealcoat” locally, but it won’t last as long. But that’s only part of the story. Do you really want to haul all those heavy pails home, spill it on your clothes (or worse, the house) and then try and make it look nice with a $10 squeegee? Or would you rather have a professional assess your driveway, make the necessary and proper crack repairs and seal it with State-of-the-Art equipment and standardized procedures?

Q: I’ve got a cheaper quote from another sealcoat company, why are you more expensive?

A: Not all sealcoat is created equally and certainly not all sealcoat companies are created equally. We are serious about our products, our service and our reputation in the community. If price is the only determining factor, BLACK DAWG may not be for you. We spend more time preparing the asphalt surface and cracks for sealing than the competition. And we’re fussy. BLACK DAWG employees are paid by the hour, not the job. They each have specific orders to not cut corners and to do the job to our exact standards. With BLACK DAWG you really can get what you pay for.

Q: I’ve just installed a new driveway, should I have it sealed right away?

A: No. The pavement must lose some of its light oils and cure before you can properly sealcoat. Six months to one year is generally enough time to cure the asphalt to accept sealcoat. But don’t wait too long, either.  Newly installed, unsealed asphalt can absorb oil, gas and other chemicals or be damaged by winter weather before it’s treated. Here’s an easy test to determine of your driveway is ready to be sealed – take a cup of water and spill it onto the pavement.  If it beads up and shows a little oily reflection, the pavement still needs to cure some more before sealcoat application.

Q: How long will it last?

A: With a new driveway sealed within six months to a year from installation, you should expect one to two years of protection from your first application. Subsequent sealcoat applications should last two to three years.  If the driveway is 10 years old and was never sealed, you might only get one year from the first application, but two to three years from subsequent sealcoat applications. Additionally, variables such as water runoff, salt, sand, snowplowing and severe temperature swings will play a role in the longevity of your sealcoat. Anyone that promises five, six or seven years or more of coverage is simply making empty promises that you’ll have no way of enforcing.  Also, while the sealer itself may last two to three years, cracks may surface which would trigger the need for treatment before the color has faded.

Q: Do you offer neighborhood discounts?

A: Yes. With the high cost of gas and labor, we can conserve time and money by avoiding travel time and pass along savings to you and your neighbors. Call 1-800-998-DAWG (3294) for more information.  Neighborhood organizers get very special treatment!


Q: Do you spray or squeegee the sealcoat on Driveways?

A:  All driveways have sealer hand-applied with a special squeegee broom near the home and hardscapes (patios, sidewalks, rock walls, etc.).  Small driveways are usually done completely by hand.  Larger driveways are normally spray applied in the open areas; although homeowners may request either method.  In some markets, particularly New York and parts of Connecticut, many homeowners are accustomed to hand-application only.  Our crews are fully trained on all methods of application.  For those driveways that have a spray application, we take great care to avoid overspray on home and hardscapes; however, we do allow for a slight "mustache" on the grass for uniform coverage to the edges of the asphalt.  The product will not harm the grass and will be gone after one or two mowings.  Additionally, while we feather in the sealer, there will be a slight difference in appearance at the transition point between hand application and spray areas.  This will fade over time.  Ask your representative for more details.
 

Q: Do you spray or squeegee the sealcoat on Parking Lots?

A:  All parking lots have sealer hand-applied with a special squeegee broom near the buildings and hardscapes (patios, sidewalks, rock walls, etc.).  Normally, two spray applications are then applied in the open areas with adequate drying time between coats.  A third coat is strongly recommended for all very high traffic lanes.  Some locations employ a squeegee machine (a ride-on buggy that dispenses sealer with a squeegee bar) for the first coat and then spray apply subsequent coats.  Ask your representative for details.


Q:  What do you do about the cracks?

A:  Crack sealing is the single most important step you can take to protect your pavement.  Cracks are a natural occurrence for most asphalt surfaces after a few years.  Proper preparation is key to successful crack sealing.  Cracks must be dry and clean for the hot rubber to adhere properly to the sidewalls of the cracks and form a tight bond to prevent water penetration.  Once the crack is cleaned, we will apply a band of specially-formulated polymeric rubber at 350-400 degrees across the crack.  This band of rubber is approximately three inches wide.  While still hot, we then cascade black silica sand across the rubber - this prevents tacky pullup on hot days and improves sealer adhesion.  The use of silica sand on parking lots and roads may be optional - ask your representative for more details.  Beware of contractors who use only cold applied or liquid crack fill.


Q:  Will the sealer eliminate all those tiny surface cracks?

A:  The short answer is No.  Sealcoat is not a "leveling agent".  The sealer will help fill in small voids and coat any imperfections, but the imperfections may still be visible.  Spider cracks are very common and, short of infrared heating of the entire surface, there is nothing that can or should be done to eliminate the shallow surface flaws in your asphalt.  Quite often, due to the deep, rich, black finish of a new sealcoat, the spider cracks will initially appear more noticeable.
   

Q:  What can be done about oil stains?

A:  We have several methods and techniques to address oil, gas or chemical stains on your asphalt.  Heavy stains often change the molecular structure of the asphalt making it impossible to gaurantee results.  Typically, we will heat treat the stain with our hot air lance and apply special oil spot primer.  This primer is designed to mask and adhere to the stain and allow the sealer to then adhere to the primer.   


Q: I've sheduled Service - what should I do Before and After sealcoat application?

A:  We ask that you not schedule any lawn services (fertilizing or mowing) for 48 hours prior to service and no fertilizing until 48 hours after (okay to mow 24 hours after).  Please move all vehicles at least 20' from any asphalt surfaces to allow access for service trucks and power cleaning.  Turn off sprinklers in time for asphalt to dry before our arrival.  Keep sprinklers off for 48 hours after service (often, sprinklers systems will leave streak marks on fresh sealer during the first few weeks - this should fade away).  Keep vehicles off surface for 24 hours minimum - 48 hours ideal.  Should be okay for foot and pet traffic, if absolutely necessary, after several hours of drying time - ideally 24 hours.  Remind all drivers to avoid turning car wheels unless car is in motion.
 

Q:  I just had my driveway sealed and I'm noticing tire marks and streaks in the sealer.  Why?

A:  Complete cure time for sealer takes up to 30 days.  During this time, the surface is sensitive to staining, tire marks and streaking from irrigation systems/hose use.  While slightly unsightly, these imperfections should fade away over the next few weeks.


Q:  Do you pick up the yard signs after service?

A:  No.  It is cost prohibitive and a wasteful use of gas to travel around and pick up the signs.  We ask that you leave the signs up as long as practical as these are our greatest source of referrals and help to keep our prices competitive for you and your neighbors.  We offer a $10 discount if you keep the sign until your next service in two or three years or you may simply dispose of the sign in the trash.